Tighten up the locknut with the 12mm wrench. Adjust the rod until its clear off the piston, and there is a slight bit of freeplay (I set mine up with just a pubic hair of play).ġ4. Its still CW rotation if youre looking at it from the firewall, but youll be upside down looking up from the floor, so experiment.ġ3. Back off the actuation rod by turning it (screw in towards the pedal). You should find that its depressing the clutch cylinder piston in partly now. Now, check the position of the clutch cylinder actuation rod. Tighten up the lock nut to set the position of the bolt.ġ2. Refer back to the pic of the upper stop bolt.ġ1. My final adjustment was about 2.5 turns in. Turn it in (CW) about 2 full turns to start. Push on the clutch pedal to take tension off the stop bolt and you should be able to turn it in. Use the 12mm wrench to loosen off both lock nuts (theyre both 12mm)ġ0. If you want to keep the amount of free play the same, pay attention to how much it is now, so that you can duplicate it later after making the adjustments.ĩ. This is normal and necessary, as this means the clutch cylinder piston is fully released, ensuring the clutch is fully engaged.Ĩ. You should be able to feel and see some free play before the actuator rod actually starts to engage the piston. While youre down there, press the clutch pedal slightly while watching the actuator rod and piston (see diagram above). However, its not really critical to keep track of it as youll see later on.ħ. As long as you can clearly identify your mark youll be able to keep track of its position. Mark one of the flats on the actuator rod as well. Its further up the clutch arm from the stop bolt and looks like this:Ħ. Identify the clutch cylinder piston actuator rod. When turning the bolt keep track of how many turns you did and you can easily reverse it back to original.ĥ. Mark the bolt with a dot or line at one side with the Sharpie. Slide in head first on your back and get under the dashboard. Move the drivers seat all the way back to give you room to work.ģ. Turn off the engine!! Dont do this while the car is running!! Obvious but you never know.Ģ. Permanent marker such as Sharpie or Staedtlerġ. Light source (I used a head mounted light to put light where I was looking and keep both hands free)ġ0mm crescent wrench for clutch cylinder actuator rod (not really needed and actually very difficult to use, but just in case you want to try) Heres the How To, with some explanations and diagrams to avoid mis-adjusting the clutch: If you try this, you do so at your own risk and release me from any liability, damage, injury, etc. I am not a mechanic and do not have any professional certification. Please note: I put these directions together based on my personal experiences. Make sure you fully read the instructions and study the pictures and diagrams to ensure you fully understand the process before starting. Also, I formulated a theory as to whats causing the problems. Its a huge improvement, and I made sure there wouldnt be any issues with insufficient disengagement or re-engagement of the clutch. As mentioned earlier I did the clutch adjustment today. Okay, took me a while but I got it together. If they had come from the factory adjusted for a lower engagement point, I think no one would have complained about the clutch and they would have sold more. When you've gotten used to clutches with a lower engagement point over the years, it's really hard to retrain your muscles and avoid giving it too much or too little gas. But I think I may back it off to 2.5 since 3 seems to put it a little too low. The pedal stop adjusts the pedal height and the amount of play before the plunger rod engages the plunger. The more you shorten the rod, the lower the engagement point. I did this based on the advice of another poster who had suggested a range of 2.5 to 4 full turns, so you have to adjust it to suit yourself. This puts the pedal just a little higher than the brake instead of way higher. Then I adjusted the pedal stop so that there was a little play before I could feel the plunger rod engage the plunger. Anyway, after marking the original position, I shortened the plunger rod by three full turns. Search the net for complete and excellent description of the process by Super Car Tastes - Skoda Budget, etc. So make sure you scope out the situation completely and all that before you do it. Remember, this is clutch, an important part of your car and expensive to repair if you screw it up. To everyone who still hasn't gotten used to the high engagement point of the clutch, it is easy to adjust.
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